Helen and Mike's Blog

Bye bye SE ASIA!

2008-11-28T09:08:00.001+08:00

Well, that's it folks! The 'big trip' to Australia via SE Asia is almost over and I'm sitting here in Phuket Airport waiting to board a flight to Melbourne. The travel blog I've been maintaining on Blogger has pretty much come to an end, and I'm returning to my own personal blog on Wordpress.
Stick around - the adventure has only just begun!

Last Day Of The Big Trip

2008-11-24T16:27:00.001+08:00

Well, this is it, the final day of our Big Trip from London to
Melbourne. Of course, it could be said that the adventure is only just
beginning, there's certainly a whole lot of things to sort out - not
least jobs (careers?) and a place to live!
I probably won't be posting to this blog with the frequency to which
you have become accustomed, but I will no doubt, be returning to it to
polish it, add detail and add photos as we get them
developed/uploaded.
I hope you've enjoyed the trip, keep in touch - and don't be a stranger! :)

--
Sent from my mobile device

Last day in Thailand.

2008-11-24T16:25:00.001+08:00

Today is our last day before we head to Australia to start our new life. Bit of a none day really, spending ages packing our rucksacks (I'm convinced mine is over the allowed 20kg), wandering up to the post office, having lunch, and now - grabbing half an hour in an Internet cafe before we grab a shower at the hotel, and get our 4:45 cab to the airport.
we're on the 21:00 flight to Sydney, arriving in Melbourne just before midday.

Simon Cabaret

2008-11-23T12:50:00.001+08:00

No, not a reference to my old mate from Virgin Wines, but the name of a 'ladyboy' cabaret show in Patong.
The show was very family-friendly, and even though we had 'regular' seats in the balcony unlike 90% of the audience with 'VIP' seats, we could see the show quite well - and were safely beyond the reaches of any 'audience participation'. At just over one hour long, the show comprised a number of feather boa based set pieces seperated by a couple of comedy skits including a Tina Turner impression.
After the show an opportunity was given (and missed) to have your photo taken with the ladies. I took a couple of pictures nevertheless, that's one of them above (more on flickr) - would YOU be fooled?

Things I Probably Couldn't Have Made It Without.

2008-11-22T19:21:00.001+08:00

[note 'things' rather than 'people'...]
As we reach the end of our (geographical) journey, I thought it would
be appropriate to post a list of things that made the trip all so much
easier for me. I'll elaborate on many of these and include URL's where
necessary once I reach 'home':
Alongside the numerous free wifi access points at virtually every stop
on our journey through SE Asia there's my Nokia N82, opera mini, shozu
(facebook, blogger flickr, and youtube interface), gmail for mobile,
fring, Nokia Maps...
Podcasts:contrastpodcast, mixtape podcast, oldtime RnR podcast...
Websites: Tripadvisor, facebook, blogger...
a Nationwide Flex account; and of course The Lonely Planet!

--
Sent from my mobile device

Beach Bums

2008-11-22T12:51:00.000+08:00

22nd November:
I'm sure this doesn't exactly make for rivetting reading, but there was just more lying around on the beach again today.
We're going to see a lady boy cabaret this evening in Patong, so maybe I'll have something of interest to say about that tomorrow. Until then: if I roll over can you put some more cream on my back? Thanks.

Phuket Day 2

2008-11-21T12:44:00.000+08:00

21st November:
A nice relaxing day on the beach today. I went for a snorkel around the nearby rocks and was amazed at the variety of fish. At one point I found a cove filled with a shoal of thousands of fish; everywhere I looked I could see nothing but fish, and oddly the water even tasted a little fishy. Which was nice...
Later we ate at Rico's Pizzeria and finished with complementary flaming sambuccas, and ended the evening watching a fire show at Ska Bar (a bar which plays no ska, only bad reggae, natch).

Kata Minta, Kata, Phuket.

2008-11-21T12:42:00.000+08:00

21st November:
We've arrived at our 2600 baht (about 5 times what paid throughout Vietnam) a night hotel for the last four nights of our trip. Plan is to chill out, catch a lady boy cabaret in Patong, and finely tune our luggage so as to avoid any excess charges at the airport en-route to Melbourne. The hotel is nice and has cable, air-con, plenty of hot water (a bath!), and is less than 5 minutes walk to the bars, restaurants, and beach. It's also about half an hours walk to the girly bar strip of Thaina - so far enough away from the sleaze.

Kho Phi Phi Don to Phuket.

2008-11-21T11:41:00.000+08:00

We took the 9am ferry, finally leaving the harbour at 9.45, and arriving in Phuket at 11, finally getting off the boat and into a minibus around 12. We got to our hotel around 12.30 - despite a minor altercation with the driver who decided he didn't want to take us all the way there.
We're looking forward to some sun, sea, peace, and quiet on the last 4 days of our SE Asia trip. While we enjoyed the sun, food and shopping on Phi Phi, we enjoyed these at the expense of a good nights sleep and any sense of culture. Phi Phi town after dark is a great place to be if you're young, stupid, (sample quote: 'lets party like its 1999!'>'who sang that?'>'I dont know, wasnt it someone cool like Jay-Z?'), like to fight other holiday-makers for free buckets (!!) of 'cocktails', shout at your mates in the streets until dawn, or all of the above. Been there, done that now. Next time it's the exotic hideaway on the Eastern side of the island, with the occasional long-tail journey to fulfill shopping and eating requirements.
Old Leonardo had the right idea...

Last day on Phi Phi

2008-11-20T08:59:00.001+08:00

19th November:
This morning Hels took herself off on a Thai cooking course while I fried myself on this beach for a couple of hours.
After lunch (of home made Pad Thai!) we took a boat trip to Monkey Beach, Viking Cave and after a spot of snorkelling (puffer fish, turtles, sharks), to Maya Beach (THE Beach of Leonardo de Caprio fame). I tried to swim from the boat to the beach, but after 10 minutes got bored and hitched a ride by grabbing a rope trailed from a motor boat - much faster!
In the evening we arranged our final stop on our trip - Kata Minta, Kata Beach, Phuket - and caught a bout of Thai boxing at Reggae Bar. Tomorrow at 9am we get the ferry to Phuket.

Phi Phi Rain

2008-11-19T11:07:00.001+08:00

A storm rolled in around 5pm, so we bought some dvds, rented a dvd player and caught a couple of new movies: Quantum Solace and Tropic Thunder. The latter was best.

Phi Phi Day 2

2008-11-19T11:06:00.001+08:00

This morning I went for a walk up the hill to Phi Phi's Viewpoint, from where there's a great vantage point over Phi Phi town. At the top there's also a photograph of how the town looked after the tsunami of 2004.

Life's A Beach.

2008-11-17T20:22:00.001+08:00

17th November.
Conscious that we fly to Melbourne a week today, we spent much of our first full day on Phi Phi lounging around in deck chairs on the white sand beach, dipping into the crystal clear waters from time to time to cool off.
Once Mike had finished playing with dogs and feeding the birds on the beach we wandered round some shops and Mike got into an argument with a fake watch seller who took exception to being told his watches were too expensive (and who clearly didn't understand the basics of bartering). We then met another watch seller who knocked £50 off a Franck Muller in the blink of an eye; we decided that was suspiciously eager, so didn't buy there either...
More drink and shopping this evening, but not buying vintage Adidas bags, which are almost certainly just crappy old bags with an authentic looking stencil on the outside and a fake label on the inside.

Aloha Guesthouse, Ko Phi Phi

2008-11-16T13:01:00.000+08:00

16th November:
Despite arriving on the island without any kind of hotel booking, Hels looked after the bags while Mike went in search of accommodation. Although there are a number of very classy resorts on the island in the 45 to 60 pound a night bracket, we opted for a 20 a night pad near the centre of town; it's got aircon, hot water, and cable tv as well as a decent Internet cafe downstairs - we're not sure what else we need. There's a busy (but well serviced) white sand beach about 5 minutes walk away (many quieter ones 15 minutes away) and all the shops and restaurants we could ever need right on our doorstep. Mike is currently lusting after a number of vintage Adidas bags he's found in one shop but is struggling with his 20kg luggage allowance...

Krabi to Phi phi

2008-11-16T11:01:00.000+08:00

This morning we took the Ao Nang Princess to Phi phi Don island where we will spend the next few days. After a 20 minute stop at Railay West to pick up more passengers, we hit the open sea at around 10.30 arriving at Phi Phi by 12 .

400 baht 4 Island Tour.

2008-11-14T19:01:00.000+08:00

14th November.
Today we took a tour around four of the islands in the Krabi area: Railay (not strictly an island, but a beach that is only accessible by sea) with its cave full of outsize phalluses, Poda Island, Tap Island, and Chicken Island (it has a rock outcrop that looks vaguely like a chicken). Each of the islands had beaches with white sand and clear azure waters filled with colourful fish and sea cucumbers; colourful coral reefs off the coast provided wonderful opportunities for a bit of light snorkelling (after last night's curry it was only right that we did some exercise today!) and Mike found a brooch at the bottom of the sea with glittering stones that he is hoping prove to be real diamonds...
In the evening we ate Pad Thai and Mike managed to find the one and only venue in Ao Nang with free wifi: The Irish Rover pub

Lots happening, just can't tell you about it!

2008-11-13T12:00:00.004+08:00

We're in Ao Nang, Krabi Province right now and the weather is beautiful again (which means I have a face like a lobster again).
Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be anything in the way of wifi connections, so I'm unable to connect my phone to the tinternet and tell you all about it.
Suffice to say, there's beaches, white sand, monkeys, elephants, hermit crabs and a lovely private bungalow (for 15 GBP a night) run by a Borat look-alike.
We'll be here for another three nights before we move on to Phi Phi.

Still taking lots of photos and 'ting - expect an update as soon as we reach technological civilization again (this is written on a laptop in an internet caff while I have my breakfast)...

On Ao Nang beach: monkeys and hermit crabs

2008-11-12T19:11:00.000+08:00

12th November:
The sun returned today with a vengeance, so we spent all day frying on the beach with everyone else. The water here is warm and clear so it was easy to dip in now and again to cool down.
Toward the end of the day we walked to the end of the beach where the forest begins and 30 to 40 monkeys lived, coming down from the trees to be handfed fruit on the beach. We ('nature-boy')also noticed that the shallows were teaming with hermit crabs, so Hels undertook her hermit crab 101.
Today's full moon also marks the Loi Krathong Festival, hundreds are expected on the beach after dark to release lanterns across the sea and into the air.

Anawin Bungalows, Ao Nang

2008-11-11T19:00:00.000+08:00

11th November:
This is our new home for the next three or four nights, a bargain at 900 baht (£16) a night. We have aircon, a tv with dvd and even our own little private veranda! It's run by Borat look-alike Ishmael and is on a quiet side street right off the main drag.
After moving here in the morning I somehow managed to get Hels signed up to an afternoon elephant trekking to *everyone's* surprise. Nelly on Nelly if you like...
After the trek, I had a little snooze in my hammock (the weather has improved) while H went for a pedicure and manicure. Later we ate at an Indian restaurant on the seafront and had a 'few' drinks while Helen tried to beat me at 'shithead'.

Elephant trekking.

2008-11-11T18:13:00.000+08:00

See if you can spot Helen's 'not-at-all-terrified' smile...

Amon Mason, Ao Nang

2008-11-10T19:00:00.000+08:00

Cheap (£9 a night) and not particularly cheerful, we're staying here for one night only until there's a vacancy at Ishmael's place next door.
Our flight was on time and surprisingly smooth considering the weather, landing in Krabi around 13:30 and with surprisingly little panic from Hels, not withstanding her remark about 'what if one of the propellers falls off?' ...

On our way to Krabi

2008-11-10T12:22:00.001+08:00

Well, here we are at Koh Samui airport waiting for our 12:30 flight to
Krabi. It's raining really heavily again today and we've noticed that
some of the flights have been delayed - but not ours just yet.
Weather reports suggest that it will be raining for another couple of
days yet, so I think it's safe to say that Samui and Krabi have been /
will be non starters...
Assuming we get off the ground in the first place - the tannoy has
just announced that due to the weather all flights are 'delayed' and
we should await another announcement at 11:40. Poo.

--
Sent from my mobile device

There's a storm a-brewin!

2008-11-09T13:51:00.001+08:00

Expecting more rain this morning we had a lie-in and a late breakfast,
played with the local beach dogs, got bitten by their fleas, and went
for a walk along the beach planning what to do with the rest of the
day under the promise of sunshine.
It's 12:46 now and there is a MASSIVE electrical storm on the horizon.
The thunder is literally making the room shake! 15 miles away at last
count.
Ah well, I'm watching the Sydney Marathon on tv and at least it looks
like we'll be getting sunshine again in a fortnight as we hit the
Australian summer.

--
Sent from my mobile device

It's a bit wet out...

2008-11-08T15:46:00.002+08:00

If you've been keeping up to date with the videos I've been posting on youtube, you'll have noticed that the monsoon rains have hit Thailand. Practically, this means its very very wet outside before about 14.00; combined with the intermittent blackouts caused by the power drain of most of Koh Samui sitting indoors watching TV, you're left with the options of eating, drinking, reading, or trying to counter the effects of two months of eating and drinking to excess by working out in the resort gym. This morning I did all of the above. A two hour workout listening to trance podcasts might not have undone ALL the side effects of three Singhas a day for three months; but it's a start.

Kho Samui

2008-11-08T00:05:00.001+08:00

We left Phangan today for Kho Samui, and it was CHUCKING it down when we left. Fortunately, by the time we got to the ferry the worst was over, and by the time we'd crossed the water 50 minutes later, all that remained was an overcast sky.
Once we'd checked into Choeng Mon Hotel & Spa, we went for a bite to eat on the beach (a minutes walk away). Later we had an hour's back and shoulder massage each for a bargain £4 each then went to check out the pool and gym.
Later, after dark, we ate at one of the restaurants on the beach; Hels had a chicken green curry and I had baked pineapple and veg rice. We managed a few gin and tonics and went for a moonlit stroll around the bay. It's quite nice and peaceful here, very quiet without being isolated.

Into Had Rhin

2008-11-07T00:08:00.001+08:00

We got a taxi into the party capital of Kho Phangan today and were very pleasantly surprised by what we found. instead of the banging hardcore craziness we expected, Had Rhin was a sleepy town with loads of great little shops and restaurants. All a bit same same in places, but a definite absence of banging hardcore craziness.
We went to Cocohut Beach for sunset (beautiful and about 50 times better than our resort) before getting a long-tailed boat back 'home' in time to get changed and ready to go back out there again for dinner. The restaurant was showing 'Sex And The City', so was rammed with women. Hels took about half an hour to eat her meal and barely spoke except to tell me when there was 'a good bit' coming up.

Phangan - Day 4.

2008-11-06T12:40:00.001+08:00

The day after the night of the half-moon party.
...except we didn't go - largely as a result of the party not really getting started until 23.00, us being exhausted by 21.00, hassle of getting there (and back), and the fact that our trance days are long behind us. Oh, and we're old. Let's just get that in before anyone else does.
The weather is a little overcast today and we can see the rain over Samui from our beach, so today is probably a day for checking out some of the island before we leave Phangan tomorrow. Even though we've done nothing but blob on the beach for the past 3 days, today's lack of searing sunshine (it's still very warm) has left us wondering what to do with ourselves.

A New Dawn?

2008-11-05T13:59:00.001+08:00

Democratic Senator Barack Obama has been elected the first black President of the United States.

Phangan Day 2

2008-11-04T19:44:00.001+08:00

Today I ate, read 55 pages of Marcus Chown's 'The Never-Ending Days Of Being Dead', ate, sunbathed while listening to The Man In Black, swam and snorkelled in the sea as the sun set, ate, drank, and slept.
I also booked one-way flights to Australia, arriving 25th November.
The Life.

Bangkok Unbound!

2008-11-03T19:43:00.001+08:00

Just check out the quality of this 'sleeper' from Bangkok to Surat Thani (from where we catch a bus, and then a ferry to Kho Pan Gan). It's pants. Really quite appallingly cack.
I think we were spoiled by the relative luxury of the Vietnamese trains; a less-well developed nation. It did get a little better when they 'put the beds down' but the perceived lack of pack security when compared to Chinese and Vietnamese trains meant we got very little in the way of comfortable sleep; constantly watching our bags, especially at the many station stops (oh, and the ants in my bed. Let's not forget the ants) ...
We arrived at the station at 06.35; about an hour late and boarded the coach to take us to the ferry...

Bangkok In A Nutshell.

2008-11-02T13:15:00.001+08:00

Now that we're leaving The Big Mango, I thought it might be worth
mentioning some of the things we've learned:
1. Tuk tuks don't do it.
Your destination is not 'closed for lunch'
A 10 or 20 baht 'total' fare IS a scam.
There is no special promotion on today because it was the King's
birthday yesterday.

2. 'Meter' taxis:
If the meter 'doesn't work' the driver is on the make. (his cab is
probably parked right outside a tourist spot). A trip from the main
coach station to Khao San costs around 300 baht. 'Flag fall' is around
40 baht.

3. Express River Boat:
Safe and scam free, the best way to get across the city. 15 baht flat
rate single fare paid to the conductor ON the boat.

4. Sky Train:
Safe, clean and air-conned. 30 or 40 baht gets you a single journey
depending on the distance you're travelling. Use in conjunction with
the river boats.

5. River Taxi:
Fast and efficient. 8 baht gets you a rapid journey between Golden
Mountain and Siam Square.

6. Weather:
You're rarely more than a quick jog away from an indoor (often
air-conned) market or shelter of some kind. Don't sweat the petty
stuff.

--
Sent from my mobile device

When Helen Met Penny.

2008-11-02T13:12:00.001+08:00

...and so we went out for dinner.
En-route to Mike buying his jeans we stopped to look at some menus when the tattoos of a girl inside a bar caught Helen's eye. For reasons she still can't explain, she looked to see who the girl was talking to - and it was Penny: her ex-workmate from BDP in London!

Back To MBK.

2008-11-02T10:33:00.001+08:00

Hels rose from the dead today and was in dire need of some retail therapy - and a haircut; so I took her via multiple modes of public transport to the shopping mecca that is Siam Square and MBK.
Once there, we ate in the 5th floor foodcourt before H went for her haircut and I went for a one hour Thai full body massage. Afterwards, I bought 150 baht Calvins and H bought MORE shoes; finally, we caught the river taxi home.
I might buy some fake Evisus later, I'm gonna need some jeans for our arrival in Australia within the month...

Bangkok - Day 4

2008-10-31T21:52:00.001+08:00

Today I visited the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew, and Wat Pho; all within a 15 minute walk of Khao San, and every one of them closed for the day if you were to believe the legions of tuk tuk drivers who bothered me en-route.
The temples were quite impressive, but in all honesty, after the temple onslaught of the last two months I was probably less impressed than many of the other tourists there. The giant reclining Buddha was pretty cool though...
In the evening I dragged Hels out for a meal, but she's still not that great, so left most of her food and returned to the hotel early. As Halloween was in full swing on Khao San Rd and I needed some more deoderant, I headed back that way for a saunter and to catch some of the live bands that had set up stage before heading back myself.

No snow here...

2008-10-30T21:40:00.001+08:00

...but plenty of rain.
Hels stayed in bed again today, so between errands to the 7-1¹and Boots The Chemist I wandered lonely as a cloud up and down Khao San Road introducing myself to 20 year old backpackerettes and popping into primary schools to catch impromtu performances of O Sole Mio (there's a charity-run school on the KS Road - not a lot of people know that).
Later, while hiding from the monsoon downpour I took photos, haggled over t-shirts, and, inspired by the songs of the schoolchildren, stuffed my face in an Italian restaurant called La Casa. All quite fun, actually: I've read Catcher In The Rye too many times not to enjoy my own company...
So I was disappointed when my phone ran out of credit and repeated, unanswered, text messages from the Mothership necessitated my early 7pm return to the hotel.

All By Myself...

2008-10-29T20:37:00.001+08:00

Hels was still feeling a bit under the weather today, so I decided to take the river boat to Chinatown and go for an explore. It's a bit of a hectic place, lots of warren-like streets selling everything from sea slugs to 12 packs of severed-penis keyrings (for halloween, and actually, not that different from the sea slugs...). I bought Hels a 'trendy' smog mask that turned out to be a headband and grazed on street food.
Later, I took the sky train to Sukhumvit, for a look around. It's a complete dump, learn from my mistake: don't go there. I jumped straight back on the sky train and went back to Siam Square instead.
A short trip on the river taxi returned me to Golden Mountain, and from there my mobile GPS got me back to the hotel in time for a much needed shower and relax under the aircon before dinner.

Ethos, Bangkok.

2008-10-28T21:52:00.001+08:00

Vegetarian and vegan restaurant.
Sitting here on my own in an oasis of calm hidden near the khao san road eating falafels and humous (which arrives on three plates and I heartily recommend) and reading On The Road. Cool as fuck.
Free wifi too!

Shopping in Bangkok.

2008-10-28T20:41:00.001+08:00

Hels was feeling a little unwell this afternoon, so after lunch and after she'd gone back to the hotel I took myself window shopping around Siam Square. Lots of cool little boutique shops in the area, but the mother of them all, guaranteed to part you with your baht, is MBK: 6 floors of electronic, clothing, houseware and edible cheapness; and all just in time for xmas!
Afterwards, I got the skytrain and river ferry back to San Khao, before walking back to our hotel.

Bangkok Day 1

2008-10-28T20:40:00.001+08:00

After eating a great pad thai jay in 'phannie' restaurant last night, an 'interesting' first morning in Bangkok began with a great breakfast and the decision to extend our stay here by a further two nights. The information we'd been given about BK being a dive barely worth spending two nights in, couldn't have been more wrong.
That said, our tuk tuk drivers insistence on taking us not to the place we wanted to go, but to 'government owned factories' eventually wore thin when Mike's GPS revealed that he was now driving out of the city in the opposite direction to our destination, and we got out at traffic lights and got an air conditioned cab instead...

Lamphu Tree House, Bangkok.

2008-10-27T23:41:00.003+08:00

A 300 baht taxi ride from the coach station, we have finally arrived in Bangkok and it's looking great so far. Might need to stay an extra night to get our city fix!

The Road Less Travelled.

2008-10-27T23:41:00.001+08:00

We decided to take a taxi to the Thai border at Poipet rather than fly as not only was Hels scared of flying, but our hotelier assured us that for very little extra cost (total $40) we would get there quicker and in a vehicle with better suspension.
Two and a half hours later we arrived at the border, shaken and only a little stirred. Hels doesn't like bumpy roads either!
Very little in the way of signage at the border meant we were a bit confused, and even more confused when ejected at the other end into 'Bartertown' with nary a bus to Bangkok in sight. A quick chat to an elderly Englishman and his Thai wife got us onto a 80 baht tuk tuk to the bus station and then a luxury 240 baht (£4) bus for the four and a half hour ride to Bangkok. ETA 17.30.

OMG WTF #2.5

2008-10-27T23:38:00.001+08:00

Ok, not really that scary this one; but it still freaked me out a bit in the shower this morning what with it being right next to my head and everything...
Hope you're all appreciating my oh-so-very-British this-is-how-big-it-is tool!

Kama Sutra, Siem Reap.

2008-10-26T09:32:00.001+08:00

This evening we had a beer while Mike caught some of the live Sunderland/Newcastle game on a big screen on Pub Street before going (while the score was even) to Kama Sutra for an Indian. Quick browse in some shops afterwards before grabbing the minibus back to the hotel and an interesting conversation with some Chinese Malays about Thai politics... just like all the best night bus conversations!

OMG WTF #2

2008-10-26T09:07:00.004+08:00

Ok, so it's a millipede. Did I also mention that it's about 10 inches long and as thick as my little finger??

Ta Prohm and more Temples!

2008-10-26T09:07:00.001+08:00

25/10 Today we visited a few more Angkorian temples by tuk tuk: Ta Prohm, Ta Som, and Preah Khan.
Lots of Tomb-Raider style fun was had and lots of film was shot. The weather was much hotter than yesterday, but luckily these temples are a bit more jungly, so the trees stopped us getting burned. The tuk tuk rides between temples also helped to cool us down.
We got back to the hotel around 3 in time for some much needed poolside chill-time. Should be meeting up with Adi and Sophie for a drink later at The Blue Pumpkin, then on to Pub Street.

The Bayon.

2008-10-26T09:06:00.001+08:00

Angkor Wat

2008-10-25T17:09:00.003+08:00

Thankfully the weather wasn't too hot today for our tuk-tuk trip around Angkor Wat, the electrical storms were lingering from the night before which made temple-tourism altogether more civilised and less sweaty; if a little wet around the edges.
Angkor Wat itself was gorgeous, if a little smaller than expected, while The Bayon was in full-on Tomb Raider mode as a thunderstorm broke and we ducked for cover inside it. After lunch we visited The Baphuon, The Terrace of Elephants, and The Terrace of the Leper King before heading back to the hotel and full body massages in our room courtesy of two Cambodian girls. Which was nice.

Lotus Lodge, Siem Reap.

2008-10-25T17:09:00.001+08:00

$25 a night, pool, massages, private cottages, views of Angkor Wat from the watchtower, all the usual stuff. Run by a Dutchman: Andre.

Lotus Lodge, Siem Reap.

2008-10-25T09:52:00.001+08:00

$25 a night, pool, massages, private cottages, views of Angkor Wat from the watchtower, all the usual stuff. Run by a Dutchman: Andre.

The bus to Siem Reap.

2008-10-25T09:40:00.001+08:00

On the bad side, this bus (the $6 10.15 through Capitol) should probably be renamed the 'Halitosis Express'; more positively, a 6 hour journey gives me time to write a blog entry, read my book ('Chariots Of The Gods?'), and, assuming the old adage about coughs and sneezes is correct, contract innumerable diseases.
A dramatic electrical storm last night was re-encountered about four a half hours into our journey as we drove through heavy rain and lightning, watching the levels of the paddy fields, rivers and lakes around us steadily rise. We hoped our driver would heed the sign beside his head which read: 'Protect your life - drive safely'. He did, and we arrived in Siem Reap at 5pm.

OMG WTF #1

2008-10-22T22:02:00.001+08:00

Seriously, just look at the size of this fu*%er!
We've seen some big old bugs on our travels and all kinds of other freaky shit, but this one takes the biscuit...

Phnom Penh Day 3, Room 1

2008-10-22T19:40:00.001+08:00

This morning we moved rooms again, this time to room one, the best room in the resort. It's also the most expensive at $60 a night, but that's what you get for leaving your reservation until the last minute!
After breakfast we finalised our accomodation booking in Siem Reap then headed to the Russian Market to stock up on PP souvenirs. Mike bought a krama and a wooden box to keep playing cards in; alongside the compulsory t-shirt. Hels bought more gifts. Then we nipped to the French Embassy to take pictures before going to Wat Phnom, where Hels got scared by monkeys and an elephant while Mike released two swallows from captivity to earn good karma!
Right now we're waiting in the hotel for the belated delivery of our bus tickets for tomorrow which reception just told us they would deliver to us tomorrow at 10am, even though the bus leaves the city at 10.15! I don't think so somehow, so we've demanded they get their arses into gear and get the tickets NOW...

Tuol Sleng Prison

2008-10-21T19:03:00.001+08:00

Earlier this afternoon, by the pool, I felt like I was in Paradise; later this afternoon we visited Hell.
I'm not sure what else can be said; a deeply upsetting place. Completely unsanitized to the point where bloodstains can still be seen on the cell floors; if it's possible to describe a place as 'evil' then this is it.

Phnom Penh Day 2

2008-10-21T13:26:00.001+08:00

After a beautiful evening spent swimming in the pool while bats skimmed the surface of the water, the stars shone and distant electrical storms intermittently lit the sky, we had a peaceful night's sleep and woke to the sound of silence around 8am.
After breakfast we visited the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda before having a dip and lunch by the pool. This afternoon we will visit the notorious Tuol Sleng prison and make arrangements for visiting The Killing Fields and our onward journey to Siem Reap in two days time.

Kabiki, Phnom Penh

2008-10-20T20:07:00.001+08:00

Arrived at our £20 a night hotel/cottage in Phnom Penh around 3.30 via a two dollar tuk tuk from the coach drop off point. Each room is a seperate cottage with a private front garden containing sun loungers and an umbrella; there's also a decent sized swimming pool near the reception area. Breakfast is included and a heavily armed guard sits at the end of the street toting a sub machine gun and stopping tuk tuks coming down the street...
The currency here is an odd mix of US dollars and Cambodian Riel, menus are in R but the bill is in $; change is often a mixture of both. Tuk tuks seem to be a standard two dollars wherever you want to go.

Arrival in Cambodia.

2008-10-20T20:04:00.001+08:00

We crossed the Vietnamese/Cambodian border at around midday, a painless process made even easier by our acquisition of e-visas before we left England.
Due largely to the effects of massive defoliation by the US, the border region has little in the way of old trees or plant life, and it possible to see all the way to the horizon on both sides of the road. Here and there the ground remains pock marked and small temples can be seen.

Mekong Delta 18/10

2008-10-18T20:00:00.002+08:00

Today was our last day in the Mekong Delta before we headed back to Saigon. In the morning we took a long boat trip up the river to a fruit farm, before taking the ferry into another province. As we all waited on the other side for our minibus to catch up a scooter hit a young girl in the road, at speed, right beside us. A crowd quickly formed and the young girl war snatched up and carried off (minus her sandals); we hope, to hospital. The rider lay unconscious in the middle of the road for a long time while and older man gave him CPR; eventually he too walked away and was taken to hospital. The bike lay in the road for a long time before the passenger picked it up and drove off.
After a long drive back to HCMC, we booked our bus to Phnom Penh then checked into the luxurious Rex Hotel, our home for the next two nights.

Can Tho

2008-10-18T15:18:00.001+08:00

After checking into our hotel, we jumped into a taxi to 'Cappuccino', a restaurant on the river front recommended by The Book. After driving off in the opposite direction for half a mile and then taking a scenic route when we began to object, the driver set us down on, at least, the right road - only for us to find that Cappuccino had long since closed down. We took some pics of the big silver Uncle Ho statue on the riverfront and went to 'Nam Bo' instead, and very nice too.
After lunch we went to the big supermarket opposite our hotel, got over excited by european and American brand toiletries and then abused the in-store massage chair display for 45 minutes. If anyone wants to get us a xmas present, an Ogawa Smart10 would fit the bill nicely!

Mekong Delta 16/10

2008-10-18T15:06:00.001+08:00

Today we began a three day tour of the Mekong Delta, the 'ricebowl' of Vietnam. We've taken a boat ride down the Mekong, watched locals make rice paper, rice crispies and coconut toffees; photographed crocs (real ones, not the ones Mike was wearing on his feet until a hotelier killed them in Nha Trang) and took a long pot-holed bus ride to Chau Doc, 12 miles from the Cambodian border. Tonight we're staying in a hotel in Chau Doc - Hang Chau 2; it's a bit scabbier than The Book suggests, but it'll do, the whole 3 day trip is only costing us £18 each!

Cu Chi Tunnels.

2008-10-15T18:59:00.001+08:00

Today we went to the Cu Chi tunnels, a huge network of underground tunnels used by the VC. Mike dropped down a tiny foxhole, shuffled through tiny underground tunnels on his hands and knees and fired a clip from an M16 assault rifle. Helen didn't. We also saw the remains of an American tank which had been destroyed by a mine in the jungle and a variety of improvised 'booby' traps.
Later, we bought some more $2 t-shirts and sat and watched the traffic with a beer.
Tomorrow, we head off to the Mekong Delta for three days...

Reunification Palace

2008-10-14T19:51:00.001+08:00

After the Museum we met up with a couple from near Manchester and went for drinks and a chinwag with them.
Later we went to the Reunification Palace, essentially the seat of power for the Republic Of Vietnam until that title ceased to exist on the day in 1975 when VC tanks rolled through the gates. The building remains pretty much as it was on that day and it's fascinating to spend a few hours strolling through history. The war rooms in the basement are particularly spooky.
Afterwards we walked to the famous Rex Hotel and booked a couple of nights there. We plan to spend our last two nights in Vietnam in style!

War Remnants Museum

2008-10-14T19:49:00.001+08:00

Today we visited the War Remnants Museum in Saigon. A fascinating place chronicling the American War, the role of photojournalists, the weaponry used and some of the many war crimes inflicted on the Vietnamese people by the American armed forces. The most touching photographs were, for me, the ones that were taken by photographers moments before they died themselves; but even these paled in contrast to the section given over to war crimes, and in particular the photos and exhibits of My Lai.
This museum should be made compulsory for all visitors to Vietnam.

Dalat to Saigon

2008-10-13T17:28:00.003+08:00

We've arrived safely at our Saigon hotel after a five and a half hour comfortable coach trip. So far so good, although we did have to get a cab the 300 metres from the coach stop to the hotel because Hels' bag is now heavier than she is...
Plan is to get the various trips to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi tunnels booked as well as our onward journey to Phnom Penh, then we can relax a little...

Bao Dai's Summer Palace.

2008-10-13T11:23:00.001+08:00

...and very nice and Art Deco it was too.
This afternoon we visited the summer 'palace' of Vietnam's last king. Well recommended.

Killer Giraffes

2008-10-13T08:54:00.001+08:00

Unfortunately it seems that the giraffes in Bao Dai's palace gardens weren't as vegetarian as nature-boy thought...

The Crazy House.

2008-10-13T08:49:00.001+08:00

Built by the daughter of Ho Chi Minh's successor, this concrete monstrosity is accurately named. However, despite its tackiness, it's still worth a visit, if only because seeing is believing... and it's actually quite good fun.

Dalat

2008-10-13T08:48:00.004+08:00

The Lonely Planet describes Dalat as 'romantic' and similar to 'the French Alps'. It's neither. 'A grubby town high in the hills which has a dirty market in the centre of the town which sells the kind of tat you wouldn't look twice at back home' is probably more accurate. On Saturday nights the centre of town is closed to traffic to allow hundreds of inebriated local teenagers safe access to the thumping nightclub beside the market. But let's not be too harsh, let's see what today brings...
On a more positive note: I'd like to highly recommend the hotel we're staying in: double room with en-suite, a sauna, steam roon, spa on the roof; and an enormous breakfast of the usual omellete and eggs plus fruit, coffee, marmite, vegemite... all for an inclusive $20 per room per night. Must be difficult to beat. Oh, the hotel? It's called 'Dreams', and you'll find it in The Book.

Bus to Dalat

2008-10-11T23:08:00.001+08:00

Today at 8am we boarded the Sinh Cafe air con bus to Dalat. The bus was very modern and clean; best of all there was only about 12 passengers meaning we could all spread out a bit. En-route Hels bumped into Adi & Sophie (who we keep meeting having first hooked up in Beijing) at a rest stop.
We arrived in Dalat around 1pm and were comfortably in our hotel room at Dreams Hotel by 1.30 nicely in time for lunch.

Nha Trang Island Tour.

2008-10-10T21:30:00.001+08:00

Today we went on a £4 four island tour with our guide 'monkey boy' and his co-guide 'lady boy'. Visited an aquarium, snorkelled, drank free red wine at an impromtu floating bar and went a bit pink. We also met some more new mates: Trevor from Donegal, Bryan and his new bride from Melbourne, and Maria from Portugal. This evening we're off to the local got spring and mud baths, tomorrow morning we head for Dalat.

The Sailing Club, Nha Trang.

2008-10-10T21:29:00.001+08:00

Hels counts out the cash at a posh restaurant recommended by the lonely planet that had the looks, the location, and the high prices but failed to live up to expectations. Mike was initially given a completely different dish to the one he ordered, then while he waited Hels ate her pumpkin ravioli, half of which were empty. Our plates were taken away exactly two seconds after we put our cutlery down by a waitress who hovered near our table watching us throughout. Avoid this one, I think.

The Big Buddha.

2008-10-09T19:45:00.005+08:00

Oops! Chopped his head off. No offence.

Nha Trang Beach.

2008-10-09T19:44:00.000+08:00

First thing we did after breakfast was hit the beach. Hels couldn't stop grinning, she's been waiting for a beach like this for the last month. Incidentally, today is a month to the day since we left blighty.

The train to Nha Trang.

2008-10-09T19:42:00.000+08:00

On board the a/c soft seater SE3 to Nha Trang.

Heading for Nha Trang.

2008-10-09T19:41:00.000+08:00

We left Hoi An this afternoon on the eight and a half hour SE3 train to Nha Trang. For the first time we're travelling in the a/c soft seats, and they're not too bad - plenty of legroom and reclining seats for afternoon napping.
Last night we went out for a great meal at Cargo with a German couple (Derek & Sylvia). We had seats on the balcony watching the candles float down the river and ate at least as well as we've ever eaten in London.

Snapshot of Hoi An.

2008-10-09T19:34:00.001+08:00

In Hoi An. Love this town, if you only have a week to spend in Vietnam and don't want too much stress: go here.

Hels eats at Mango

2008-10-07T10:42:00.001+08:00

Hels and I ate at one of the upmarket restaurants in Hoi An, called Mango, where Hels was extremely excited in the knowledge that it was her idol Mick Jaggers favourite restaurant when in town. Rock on! (as dictated by H.)

Hoi An

2008-10-06T19:01:00.001+08:00

We've decided to stay in Hoi An for another night; partly 'cause the train we wanted to take to Nha Trang was fully booked and partly 'cause we like the place so much. Went to My Son today, which was interesting: lots of ancient ruins, wartime bomb craters and large stone phalluses... then after lunch in our favourite restaurant (Tam Tam Jardin) I wandered off to take photos of toothless fishwives while Hels wandered off to buy dresses.

J'arrive Hoi An

2008-10-04T13:38:00.003+08:00

Yay, we've finally arrived in Hoi An, First thing we did was upgrade from a $45 room to a $60 room - so splashing out big time here. Ok, so it's the 'honeymoon suite', but don't get any smart ideas, ok?
Mike is also dead pleased 'cause there's loads of classic Vespa scooters about the place including a gorgeous Sprint 150 that belongs to the hotel. When he asked if it was his for the next three days, the receptionist replied that it was if he could ride it. She was a little surprised when he replied that he could... So game on there then.
Just waiting to check in, scoffing spring rolls and Tiger beer - the sun is scorching, we have the best room in the hotel, there's a pool and classic Vespas. Everyone's a winner.
:)

SE1

2008-10-04T13:02:00.002+08:00

The view from our berth on the SE1 from Hanoi to Danang. Wide awake at 6.30 after being woken by the loudest, crappiest music imaginable. Even our Vietnamese berth buddies were complaining...

Goodbye Hanoi

2008-10-04T13:01:00.002+08:00

A final picture from the Hanoi Phoenix before we jumped into a 40 Dong cab to the train station. Me, Hels, (receptionist), Kelvin the manager. Great hotel, very attentive staff, can't be faulted at £11 a night for a private double room with en-suite.

Caves in Halong Bay

2008-10-03T18:01:00.001+08:00

Halong Bay

2008-10-03T17:29:00.001+08:00

Yesterday we boarded our boat in Halong Bay for a cruise around the islands. It's a beautiful place and the boat is way better than we expected. We have spent time on the beach and sunning ourselves on the top deck, and also been kayaking. We have this morning here before we head back to Hanoi and get the train to Danang.

Hanoi Phoenix Part 2

2008-10-01T07:27:00.003+08:00

Well... an hour after arriving at the hotel we finally got let in only for the guy to go back to bed without a word. We've been in the foyer for around an hour now, and he's resisting any attempts to wake him, even while cleaning staff clean all around him. It's almost 7am and we'd quite like a bed ourselves! My previous high opinion of this hotel is deteriorating rapidly...

Hels and Su.

2008-10-01T06:10:00.001+08:00

This is Hels (looking very much like she's just had chemotherapy) with Su, a 40yr. old H'mong woman who we befriended. Su walks 6kms from her village each day to sell handicrafts in Sapa. Unlike the majority of tribeswomen in Sapa, she didn't give us the hard sell at all and was happy to sit and chat about her life and our life and teach us some handy local phrases. She also offered to buy Mike for a dollar, while at the same time warning him about the ladyboys of Thailand...

Last day in Sapa.

2008-09-30T15:33:00.001+08:00

Today we leave Sapa and head back to the Hanoi craziness. We've just got back from a two hour motorbike ride to the silver waterfall, which Helen really enjoyed. Right now we're filling our faces prior to the train journey, fending off the 'you buy from me?' girls and saying bye to our H'mong mate Su.

Sapa (again)

2008-09-28T21:05:00.001+08:00

I could take pictures of this place all day. Stunningly beautiful.

In Sapa.

2008-09-28T14:04:00.001+08:00

Day two in Sapa and the rain held off until about 10.30; it's not as heavy as yesterday though and the views across the valley are incredible. The original plan was to go to the market today, but Mike is feeling a bit snotty to we passed on the 7,30 start and the 3 hour drive. We're going to walk to Cat Cat instead.

Cat Cat View Hotel, Sapa.

2008-09-27T20:57:00.001+08:00

We arrived at the Lao Cai train station at 5am for the minibus which took us to Sapa; arriving about 7. We're kind of up in the clouds, so the views are a bit limited at this time of year, and the frequent rains are heavy but it's a welcome chill out after full on Hanoi. I've already made the schoolboy error of chatting to the local tribeswomen (Sa & Ma) and have been warned that they'll now more than likely follow me everywhere when we head up to the market later.

Ticket to Sapa

2008-09-26T18:29:00.001+08:00

We're leaving Hanoi for Sapa in a couple of hours. A 10 hour overnight sleeper train to one of the highest points in Vietnam. The temperature will be a LOT cooler, and (we are reliably informed) a lot wetter! We head back to Hanoi in four days.

Tamarind Cafe, Pho Ma May, Hanoi

2008-09-26T16:13:00.001+08:00

We've eaten here four times in as many days now. The food is predictably great; this is a cheese and basil muffin with an egg and spinach sauce. Yum!

The ride of doom!

2008-09-26T15:52:00.002+08:00

On our release from Hoa Lo Prison we were pretty tired so we hired a £1 cyclo for the 15 minute ride of terror to Ma May and lunch. I've uploaded some video to youtube but it really doesn't do the ride justice.

Hoa Lo Prison, Hanoi

2008-09-25T16:39:00.001+08:00

Dong Xuan Market, Hanoi.

2008-09-25T10:11:00.001+08:00

You want frogs skinned alive, live fish in carrier bags, half fish thrashing their last while someone asks for another two inches off their middle, your lunch in the back of your throat? This is the place to come.

The Dong Millionaire!

2008-09-24T14:30:00.001+08:00

Not what you think...

Hanoi Phoenix Hotel

2008-09-24T13:02:00.006+08:00

We're staying here while we're in Hanoi. it's only £11 a night for the room and it's really central yet quiet. The streets outside are a different matter altogether, utter mayhem - crossing the street is like walking on hot coals; look straight ahead and try not to think of the inherent danger. An issue of faith.

I've gone native and have started to speak like Martin Sheen.

Boarding the train at Dong Dang

2008-09-24T13:02:00.001+08:00

The train journey from Beijing to Hanoi was pretty arduous at times but we met lots of new people, finally arriving 40 hours after we set off.

Nanluoguxiang Hutong

2008-09-20T21:03:00.001+08:00

Had a great Indian meal here last night.

The Forbidden City

2008-09-19T22:17:00.004+08:00

It is forbidden to go in to the forbidden city, but we went anyway... had a great day, the place is enormous. Unfortunately Helen forgot to charge her camera last night so was at bit frustrated at not being able to take many photos, but i think i probably more than made than made up for her loss.

AEon Bar

2008-09-19T22:17:00.001+08:00

A mate of Dave's has opened a new bar in Beijing, so we went there last night to partake of his hospitality. It would have been rude not to.

Olympic Stadium.

2008-09-19T02:11:00.003+08:00

Mike, Helen, and Dave. Dave is a mate of Mike's who he last saw over two years ago when they holidayed together in Croatia. We discovered he was in town through facebook and hooked up for drinks and early morning exercising in the park.